Scriber

I use hammers and 60d nails. Works for us.

Thanks Kris,
I will see if that flies with the boys.

I've used a number of them over the years:

The pencil-type, comprising a small-diameter replaceable carbide tip mounted in an aluminum pencil-type housing. These are the easiest to carry around, but their size and shape make it hard to bear down very hard. I still carry one in my vest, but I don't use it much.

The ones with a solid-carbide bit embedded directly in a plastic handle. These are a bit bulkier than the pencil type, but you can apply a lot more pressure when scribing. Some of them have the bit embedded more deeply than others. I had one in which the bit loosened up enough to fall out after awhile, rendering it pretty useless.

The kind with a small carbide bit brazed onto a piece of sheet steel bolted to a plastic handle. These are pretty bulky, but still fit in a Filson front pocket. The through-bolted handle is nice, but the thin steel mounting is susceptible to bending if you use the tool for tasks for which it wasn't intended, like prying open monument wells. They're pretty handy for poking, scraping and prying, though, so you just have to be careful. Despite the flimsiness drawback, I think this is my favorite kind.

In general, I buy whatever is in stock at my local hardware store when I need a new one.

Cordless Drill

Tile grout saw? This is a little carbide edged blade on a handle.

> Tile grout saw? This is a little carbide edged blade on a handle.

The ones I've seen use carbide grit in some kind of binder on a short (1" or so) blade. They leave a fairly wide and indistinct mark. The scribers with a solid carbide bit are sharpened and make a well-defined cut.

try rock/brick chisels

If your just trying to do simple lines and crosses. I usually carry around one of those 3" diameter utility grinding wheels. You can get them at Home Depot for about 2 or 3 bucks. Look for the thinnest ones you can get usually 1/8 inch. I just keep it in my tool belt with a 4" section of old lath that I use as a line guide (you could also use a 6' rule as well but why ruin that). Just put the lath guide down and then scratch in your mark. Leaves a deep clean staight cut in concrete or stone.

The edge of a file will etch most anything.

> The edge of a file will etch most anything.

It will once or twice, anyway. Concrete and stone will quickly dull any steel edge, so if you want a tool that will retain a fair degree of sharpness over time when used on these materials, tungsten carbide (commonly known by the shortened term "carbide") is the material of choice.

I use the pencil type as Jim does. Too much pressure on the tip will bend it, but for scribing fine lines in concrete they are top notch.

Google carbide tipped scribers

Are you taking a Survey of motorists out there? "How would you rate your highway experience today, sir?"

Oh nyuk nyuk nyuk.

I use the kind that looks like a steel lead holder (pencil) but the lead is a carbide tip. Using a lath for a straight edge makes a pretty good scribed mark.

I paint over the scribe, let the paint dry then scribe it again just enough to get the paint out of the scribe. That really makes it stand out.

I use pneumatic needle drills sharpened to a fine point.
They can be highly effective and very easy to get accurate lines etc on smooth concrete - bridge abutments etc.
They are cheap and re-useable. (and deadly if put in back pocket of the strides.....!!!)