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What I've learned (to date):
- There are 2 sides to myler. As evident by Jim's experience.
- There are at least 3 kinds of inks. Water, pigment, and solvent based. Some have acid and some not. Water and acid not good on mylar. Don't know about pigment based. The solvent is fine if not acid. Went to arts and crafts store (Hobby Lobby) and found an ink pad called Stazon by Tsukineko. Designed to work even on glass - non acidic.
- Cleaned the drawing of the wet stamp using acetone quickly. The process left a slight marring of the mylar, but not enough to toss the sheet. Tried other solvents - WD 40, mineral spirits - no go. Only acetone worked.
- Cleaned the stamp of old ink. Removing the ink pad from the stamper will help with that. Used a cleaner at the arts and craft store designed for that purpose. Made by Stazon - has a little applicator pad of its own.
- Inked up the stamp did a few tests. Dried very quickly. Replaced the seal and all is good.
Hope this info helps anyone else that needs to work mylar. It's all about the ink. Thanks for the replies/suggestions.
Posted : September 23, 2016 6:09 am
I bought some mylar once that was laser bond, found out real quick you need the right mylar. I use the 4mil double matte inkjet film. The ink dries in a few seconds.
Posted : September 23, 2016 7:55 pm
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