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Tapcon screws

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 JB
(@jb)
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So I'm putting up some pegboard on a block foundation wall. I've heard of Tapcons for years, so I decide to go with them.
Completely un-impressed.
I'm using 3/16" x 1-1/4" Tapcons with the supplied drill bit to attached 3/4" furring strips. The screws seem to have very little pull-out strength at all. I "stripped" many of the holes without ever getting any grip. Enough of them stuck, and I'm dealing mostly with shear weight, but WTF. Lead shields or pinch nailing would give me much more confidence. What is your experience with these things?

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 4:29 pm
(@rankin_file)
Posts: 4016
 

I used them to fasten metal electrical boxes to the concrete walls in my house - 3/4" screws. no problems.

yer prol'y holin' yer mouff wroung...

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 5:29 pm
(@loyal)
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I have had pretty luck with them in CONCRETE, but they are not so well suited to concrete block. In fact, GOOD sheet metal screws work better in block in my experiance (deeper threads). The best anchor for block appears to be those used with epoxy when it comes to "pull strength."

I like "drive anchors," but they tend to BREAK concrete block and bricks.

Loyal

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 5:36 pm
 JB
(@jb)
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The package specifically says "concrete, block and brick". I tried the hammer drill setting on my drill for the first hole and the Tapcon never touched anything, you could hve pushed it in like a thumbtack . I used the regular setting on the others and got some bite, but nothing like a sleeve. Lesson learned.

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 5:51 pm
(@the-pseudo-ranger)
Posts: 2369
 

I know exactly what you mean. I tried them once, and didn't like them. I bought a smaller diameter bit than one it came with and that worked better, but still not great. Concrete block it too "flakey" My perferred method to anchor into concrete block is a 1/4" lead plug and screw into that. Never had a problem with that.

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 7:15 pm
(@the-pseudo-ranger)
Posts: 2369
 

BTW, a quick fix for the stripped out holes would be to take something like a toothpick, break it off flush with the hole, then put the tapcon screw back in.

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 7:19 pm
(@where2)
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> BTW, a quick fix for the stripped out holes would be to take something like a toothpick, break it off flush with the hole, then put the tapcon screw back in.

A stronger fix is to install the tapcons with epoxy in the hole and the toothpick if necessary to hold it while the epoxy cures. The epoxy concept is much the same way we like to install Mag-Nails and washers in concrete sidewalks. If you wanted to be able to remove the tapcon at a later date, you might consider applying a light coating of 40W or 80-90W oil to the threads. Another method is to squish some liquid-nails in the holes and run in the tapcons.

I've got an entire 9 piece 1970's scandinavian modular wall unit in my dining room hanging from twelve 3/16"x3" tapcons. They go through the drywall, through the furring strips, and into the concrete block wall. I really didn't want my wife's crystal and antique fiesta-ware coming crashing to the floor at 3AM.

The epoxy comes to mind because last summer I had my house reinforced to meet current wind codes for South Florida. In the process, they installed 5/8" threaded rod, drilled and epoxied into the poured beam at the top of the lower story concrete block wall, then extended the threaded rods to install a nut and washer above the top plate on the framed stud wall of the second floor. The uplift load you can have on the threaded rod with 8" epoxied in the poured concrete beam is incredible.

 
Posted : April 7, 2011 8:14 pm
(@joe-m)
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You use epoxy instead of lead plugs?

 
Posted : April 8, 2011 3:57 am
(@matt-lewandowski)
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You may find that Tapcons work best on a poured concrete wall. They will grab so tight that you run the risk of stripping the screw head. I prefer the hex-head with a nut driver. Good luck.

 
Posted : April 8, 2011 4:09 am
(@where2)
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> You use epoxy instead of lead plugs?

In hollow concrete block, I find the lead plug can get lost in the void. I use lead plugs in poured concrete for 1/4" screws and bolts such as those that hold my hurricane shutters to the house. In the case of the threaded rods into a drilled, poured concrete beam, the epoxy has a tension load capability far superior to any lead plug I've ever seen. The 5/8" threaded rod, stuffed down an 8" drilled hole filled with epoxy will produce a rod with a minimum safe working tensile strength of 5,875lbs using an SAE 1018 threaded rod. At that point, it's actually the rod that is stretching due to load.

 
Posted : April 8, 2011 10:00 pm