first off, thanks to everyone for a boat load of surveying info today, but i have a question for folks that have a metal roof or have worked on them a bunch...if and when the screws start to back out, and they will eventually, what is the best way to repair/fix the problem so that it stays repaired/fixed permanently?
i've replaced some of the screws before, but they will still back out of the metal.
it would seem that replacing the current screw w/ one that is bigger makes sense, but you are probably only making your problem a bigger hole/problem to repair/fix at a later date.
i'm currently thinking of filling the current hole w/ silicone or some such material and then put in a bigger screw w/ a little of the material under and around the head of the screw, but not sure that it is any kind of permanent solution.
knowing the folks on this site, i'm guessing someone has a better idea.
if it matters, the roof is galv-alume(sp) (galvanized aluminum) and has been on for almost 12 years and has a 5/8"-3/4" (i don't remember which) plywood deck underneath.
thanks in advance for some good points/ideas/experiences to ponder.
I've used these before:
https://www.perfect-10.tv/webstore/spec-sheets/PVLSW25X2.pdf
Metal, Fiberglass, and PVC roof panels, as well as various other applications. Seem to work pretty well, and I haven't had any "back-out" (yet).
Your milage may vary of course.
Loyal
screw locations
There is always a debate about whether to put the screws on the ridges or in the flat part of the roofing.
The last metal roofing I installed, the manufacturer would not warantee the roofing unless the screws were on the ridges.
Loyal,
thanks, i'll check those out.
screw locations
Perry,
i guess i have it covered w/ screws on the ridges and the flat areas. it's the ones in the flat areas that i'm concerned with. the ridge screws seem to be doing fine.
What exactly is the problem?
I have layed down thousands of square feet of TIN roofing.
We used doubled threaded in the later years. Before that, we just pounded 2" ring-shanked and galvanized nails with a neoprene washer. Right through the rib as you said. On the laps, we just put down a simple single nail - with neoprene washer.
The double threaded screws, which were also self-tapping, always hooked right up. We never had a call-back. Those puppies and the ring-shanks never backed out.
> What exactly is the problem?
> I have layed down thousands of square feet of TIN roofing.
> We used doubled threaded in the later years. Before that, we just pounded 2" ring-shanked and galvanized nails with a neoprene washer. Right through the rib as you said. On the laps, we just put down a simple single nail - with neoprene washer.
> The double threaded screws, which were also self-tapping, always hooked right up. We never had a call-back. Those puppies and the ring-shanks never backed out.
Agree, haven't installed that much myself, but the only problems I've seen were the aluminum roofs where the ice dams actually crushed the ridges and created a leak.
Last roof I did, a builder showed me a little trick. Although the screws are self-tapping, they are sometimes a PITA to put in, especially the heavy gauge stuff. He simply predrilled all the sheets (all at the same time!)before cutting the metal banding on the pallet of roofing. They were all perfectly lined up and all done at once.
I can't help with the screws but my Cousin (the roofer) in OKC recommends Grace Ice and Water Shield to help prevent leaks around screw holes.
James
Frank-
Always in the pre drilled ridge hole.
We have ribbed metal roofing on all our buildings.
I would not use any other ever !
Cheers
Derek
Derek,
i'm probably a little slow this morn since i was up pretty late, but i'm not sure what you're talking about.
by speaking of "ridge" above, i meant (and i think Perry did too) what i think you're calling the "rib" portion, i.e. the 1-2" stick up part running down the sheet of metal.
let me know if i've misunderstood. it certainly wouldn't be the first time this week that i wasn't catching on to what someone said.
Frank
There is also the standing metal roofing seam that has blind fasteners. This was quite popular in my area 100 years ago and is experiencing a comeback in recent years.
Though still quite pricey, it's the only kind of metal I would put on an actual house.
On a garage or shed YES, but a House Roof is far too important to trust hundreds of tiny rubber washers to keep out moisture.
Supralatitudinal Terminology Error
Frank-
I probably didn't have my teeth in (or brain in gear) when I said 'ridge' instead of 'rib'..............
'Tiz rib I meant.
Maybe in the Republic of Texas the sun's heating of the roof will require a different rubber ring on the roofing screws as with the Texan diurnal temperature change, the rubber's half life may be considerably shorter than our igloo's steel
roof !
Cheers
Derek
PS- The fellows putting on the roofing pre-drilled holes in the rib on a pattern basis so it would match the 2' centres of the strapping.
Galvalume vs. R Panel is where the lap thingy comes from.
Put new screws in with slicone.
