Looking at cordless hammer drills.?ÿ Had to install markers in two boulders today and my drill just not cutting it.?ÿ During some search I came across a ground rod driving bit for SDS hammer drills.?ÿ Anybody using one of these to drive 2-bit rebar markers.?ÿ Ground roads are 6 feet or so, a 30 inch rebar should be no problem?
This is my choice. There is an adapter for $20 to convert it to be used with a 5amp lithium 20v battery, which is much better.
When setting something in rock, stone or concrete, the rod/pipe does not have to be 4ft long.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-18-Volt-7-8-in-SDS-Plus-Cordless-Rotary-Hammer/3191357
Yes I use my sds max drill all the time. Buy a quality one, I use a Bosch. I use the ground rod driver a lot. Even if you're setting in easy soil but have a lot of rebar, it saves the elbow. I have found that hammering a bar a lot in tough rock will literally bang the magnetic signature out of a rebar. How? I have no clue.?ÿ
I also core 2 5/8" in asphalt to set 2 in caps and back fill with fastplug.?ÿ
Recently I bought brass plugs from Bernsten for concrete, similar to a drywall anchor, for these they sell a bit for sds plus and I just adapt down.
Other handy bits are the spade for digging up gravel roads and a 3/4 chisel for frost and I've also carved rocks as bearing objects.
Dewalt has a new thing they call flexvolt with batteries up to 60 volt. I don't really understand it yet but many of the extrication tools that Fire Departments use are going to the Dewalt Flexvolt system. If I was looking, I would consider them. Then again, if I actually looked at the price, I may be going back to walmart.
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The Dewalt Flexvolt line is about as heavy duty as battery powered tools get so far. Spendy? Yes. But very sturdy. The Bosch 36v hammer drill is also very good.?ÿ
I'm currently using a Milwaukie 18v hammer drill and it does a fair job of drilling holes for mag nails and Bernsten plugs (in stages). When I replace it, which will be soon, it will be with a Milwaukie that uses the same batteries and has an SDS chuck. That will probably be sufficient to drive a 30" rebar in moderate ground. If I didn't already have an investment in Milwaukie batteries I'd probably go with the Dewalt.?ÿ?ÿ
On a side note to the hammer drill selection, as per a previous post/thread, We all mostly throw out into the veld maybe $50k worth of kit, unattended, daily. The things I've had stolen are (touch-wood): the shirt off my back (well, off the clothes line), two pairs of Asics running shoes (while courting), a digital camera put behind me while I was digging a control hole, and my personal hammer drill (plus charger and bits - they knew what to take) - $600 to replace. So be careful out there with stuff that Joe Blow wants (but doesn't want to work/pay for).
I have a 40 volt chainsaw its 18 inches, it's nice pull the trigger wait a second then start cutting.
We just order the 36 volt Bosch hammer drill.?ÿ
A client has an electric-powered system that the battery will power a Side by side ATV that has a generator run off the turning axle to recharge additional batteries and it will also power a multitude of power tools from a chainsaw to drill.
I have used it. Good for trimming branches and brushy trees. You will still need the Stihl for felling trees.
I have a 36 year old McCulloch for that. I just hate using it while I am up in the tree and the Craftsman battery powered chainsaw is a little weak to cut big limbs.
The trick to keeping a chainsaw running for 36 years is simple, don't loan it out.
I use a 20v reciprocal saw with a pruning blade for limbs, roots and others.
You won't regret it. Remember not to pry or pull when in hammer mode. It will last if you hold to those two rules.
We used the small 18v hammer drills for years. I finally talked everyone into getting the 36v Bosch Rotary Hammer. It is completely worth the money. Concrete might as well be butter.
