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1/4 Section Corners
I am trying to establish East and West centerline of section T9S R7E S31 section. How do I calculate 1/4 section of this irregular section
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16 Replies
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I don’t know where you are at, but just from looking at the minimal information you have provided, chances are probably pretty good, you shouldn’t be “establishing” or “calculating” very many aliquot lines/corners; you are most likely going to be finding where they have already been established.
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Just west of Toledo, Ohio. Seems like it would only have 2 quarter sections and then lots for the remainder. I’m not familiar with surveying in Ohio, but I’d probably start with the 2009 PLSS Manual.
http://cfeds.org/docs/sml/ManualOfSurveyingInstructions2009_060414.pdf
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That’s some high dollar real estate in that section
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I agree with Brian…look to where they have probably already been established. It looks like plenty of Surveying has gone on in that section already.
This is in Ottawa Hills, Ohio.
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Yes, this is definitely a retracement survey. Find the foot steps of surveyors before you and they will lead you to the 1/4 corners. Try and do it with math; you will definitely be in the wrong spot.
I hope everyone has a great day; I know I will! -
You should be looking at adjacent subdivisions and surveys that have tied that quarter corner and recover or restore it’s position relative to those rather than measuring or proportioning from distant section corners.
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Nearly every time I’ve seen a surveyor proportion in a 1/4 or section corner and completely ignore the prior surveys that were done based off of the original corner’s position, the end result has been chaos.
Willy -
Nearly every time I’ve seen a surveyor proportion in a 1/4 or section corner and completely ignore the prior surveys that were done based off of the original corner’s position, the end result has been chaos.
Here’s a good example of a local surveyor’s corner record and work that must far exceed my (or any other surveyor’s) abilities and authority.
He notes his C/4 was set per the manual, but completely ignores the possibility that the IP he found 15.7′ SE of his calculated location might mean something. This is in a fairly wooded area…and FYI, that IP was “found” in place in 1976 and used to create a subdivision of the NE/4…I was the young PC that did the field work.
The arrow indicates the corner location where a 40 year old (or older) monument was deemed to “not be good enough” and reset by my colleague “per instructions”. I never spoke with him about it…I’d be on the phone forever…and this is NOT an isolated incident around here,,,sadly.
PS – there were no fences there in 1976.
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Everything to subdivide the Section by rule and math is on the plat. You probably only need it to bolster the other evidence and prove that you looked at all solutions…
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Nearly every time I’ve seen a surveyor proportion in a 1/4 or section corner and completely ignore the prior surveys that were done based off of the original corner’s position, the end result has been chaos.
“proportion will get you to the one exact place that you can be absolutely sure the monument never was”
Bob Curtis, California PLS3216 1977+/- (and continually since).
or something very similar: He is a very smart man -
Side question – He set a 3/8″ rod. Is that an acceptable monument in OK? I thought most places required at least 1/2″ and many 5/8″.
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Things are so mashed up by setting proportioned and re proportioned section corners in Utah, especially in areas that have no survey records for the first 120 years or so, areas with very long term occupation lines that may or may not be derived from original corners, that in my opinion it is almost a worthless endeavor to even set new corners. OK, the whole title system here is referenced back to the GLO survey so we need to maintain the PLSS. So I suppose that the PLSS framework needs to be maintained, yet they have not done it in many areas for 150 years and things still going along. Fixing the corners WILL NOT resolve the boundary issues, may just cause more if we then apply the math from our shinny new corners.
Long established and respected boundaries of landowners SHOULDN’T be subject to dragging around the corners of polygons in a CAD system, yet is very common it appears to me.
We need a new start and now things could be kept track of to below a cm in mathematical precision. My solution is to accept what the courts have shown us due to operation of law, survey that properly and put it in the record and GIS. Seems like everybody wants that but boundary law and the cost of the surveying prevents it from happening. Sounds like the same ole same ole doesn’t it. We want it but not if cost very much.
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Side question – He set a 3/8″ rod. Is that an acceptable monument in OK? I thought most places required at least 1/2″ and many 5/8″.
Bill,
If you’re asking about that corner record from OK, here is our statutory “standards” for the size of any monument..such as it is: ?
SUBCHAPTER 13. MINIMUM STANDARDS FOR LAND SURVEYING – 245:15-13-2 (12)
“..Where practical, monuments shall be constructed of material capable of being detected with the conventional instruments for finding ferrous or magnetic objects. All set monuments shall have affixed thereto a durable marker or cap bearing, at a minimum, the license number of the land surveyor in responsible charge, or the Certificate of Authorization number of the firm performing the survey…”
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durable marker or cap
I been doing this long enough and plastic caps been out for enough years, that I wouldn’t consider them durable. Found some this year about twenty years old, split in half and faded so bad could barely read. Animals chew them and fire gets em.
So what does durable mean? I’d say stainless steel, brass and maybe aluminum for the caps. 5/8 steel rebar (or pipe) if the soil conditions don’t take them out. I’d say about 2 feet minimum length unless in rock. Set in concrete makes more durable markers also.
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durable marker or cap
I been doing this long enough and plastic caps been out for enough years, that I wouldn’t consider them durable. Found some this year about twenty years old, split in half and faded so bad could barely read. Animals chew them and fire gets em.
So what does durable mean? I’d say stainless steel, brass and maybe aluminum for the caps. 5/8 steel rebar (or pipe) if the soil conditions don’t take them out. I’d say about 2 feet minimum length unless in rock. Set in concrete makes more durable markers also.
I would agree on durable, but it all depends on the environment and location. I’ve seen plastic last in some place that are over 40 years and then other like you stated, fades and chewed on. Over in the OKIE Panhandle, 2 ft is still not enough due to the sand being so deep you can dig to China!
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