A predecessor at State Parks set a bunch of 1-1/4" rebars at Mendocino Woodlands for traverse points. We still had a pallet of them, 4 footers. Those looked tough to set, I can't imagine trying to drive a 2-1/2" rebar.
Jim Frame, post: 336145, member: 10 wrote: If I've done the calculation correctly, those rebars weigh in at just about 100 lbs. apiece. When you consider the relative mass of a handheld driving tool -- sledge hammer or fence post driver -- I'm surprised you were able to get them in the ground at all.
One time I decided to use a 3-foot length of 1-1/2" bar that I had picked up somewhere as a corner monument. When I started hitting it with my 6-lb. sledge the relative mass concept became very clear. I persevered and eventually got it set, but it wasn't worth the trouble.
That is one reason I don't bother with such a small sledge. I have a 4 lb. short handle for the bag and usually a 10 lb. or bigger for other stuff.
Fiberglass handle guy here since 1995. Shovel, and a 3# and 8# sledge. At least on the hammers they have a lifetime guarantee, have got one free 8# since 1995, everything else is going strong, those are pretty cheap tools over the years with zero replacement handles or maintenance. I have one of the Estwing steel handled axes too, way older than 1995, doesn't get a lot of use. Not a real fan of the performance of a steel handle, too much shock transmitted to the body.
SHG
That's a good point about a he shock absorption. I think my tennis elbow was exacerbated through the exclusive use of the steel handled hammer. I started using the lighter fiberglass one when I'm just setting lath and it has gotten better
Stephen Johnson, post: 335663, member: 53 wrote: Like those Estwings. Have a hatchet. Too bad they don't make larger sledges, at least I haven't seen any.
I also have a hatchet with a wood handle that has had the same handle since approximately 1969. I almost never miss with it.
My favorite hammer is a generic 42oz ball peen with a 20in yellow fiberglass handle from Tractor Supply, it makes a lot of impact.
Those hand size ball peen hammers from Harbor Freight are great for what pounding I once used to use the plumb bob for. They are also great for recessing rods in pavement.
Dave Karoly, post: 336153, member: 94 wrote: A predecessor at State Parks set a bunch of 1-1/4" rebars at Mendocino Woodlands for traverse points. We still had a pallet of them, 4 footers. Those looked tough to set, I can't imagine trying to drive a 2-1/2" rebar.
Not sure what the point of setting such robust bars is. If a 2 1/2" bar gets hit by a dozer it's going to be just as disturbed as a 3/8" pin is.
Stephen Johnson, post: 336157, member: 53 wrote: usually a 10 lb. or bigger for other stuff.
I've used a 10 lb. hammer, but I'm not big enough to control it reliably. I can manage an 8 lb. okay, but it wears me out too fast. The 6 lb. suits me much better, since I weigh in at 135 lbs. soaking wet.
Day in, day out, I use a 3lb hammer. Works great for traverse points, pk nails, 18 inch 1/2 inch rebar, stakes. and what ever. Yesterday I needed to set 2 corners on a simple subdivision lot. The ground was so hard you'd thought is was asphalt. Luckily I had a short 8 lb hammer in the truck. I could feel the rebar vibrate like a banjo string. Took about 30 licks each to sink them home. Glad I had some 18 inch oak stake with a pencil point. My 36 inch 1 x 1's with a chisel point would have broke off.
