Jeremy
If all I had was Dallas Clay, then I would agree with you, but our Red Clay is much much better at using as a base. The Dallas clay is what we call "black gumbo" and is horrible.
I didn't want to pull it out of square any more than it already is, that and that is how it was recommended.
No MIG?
> I bet we've burnt a half bottle of oxygen and 30 lbs. of welding rods getting it together.
You gas-welded all of it? Why not MIG, or at least stick?
No MIG?
The oxygen was for my cutting torch (oxygen and propane) and the rods are for my miller bobcat 225 stick.
Each weld is a 6010 weld with a 7018 or 8018 cap. My mig is at home in the shop. My miller is a welder generator. Each piece of pipe was cut and saddled and pipe fit in, then welded out. Its a very strong structure.
Jeremy
I was not questioning your choice, simply noting the difference in practices.
When working on roads, we usually have to roll out some geotextile fabric, place crushed base rock, then grade to drain.
Each application and clay type is probably different.
I'm actually considering making bricks out of this clay. I believe all of the buildings around town used this material.
> I didn't want to pull it out of square any more than it already is, that and that is how it was recommended.
Well, I wouldn't think that pulling it out of square would be an option for a surveyor with a measuring tape. The reason you want to brace it off before you put the skin on is so that you won't be racking the structure stressing the screws that attach the corrugated metal to the frame submembers.
We would refer to that as a machine shed, even if we filled it with hay or other items.
We have huge amounts of clay and no sand. We might place a layer of crushed limestone or river gravel to the floor area inside the shed for a drier surface during the wet seasons. The clay will be fine for a pipe structure like yours in your climate.
Wind bracing should go in immediately after the metal cladding has been installed.
I have one old barn that has large posts for all primary support. I have no idea where they found them back 120 years ago. The center ones are nearly 40 feet above ground surface and remarkably straight. Thirty years prior to its construction almost everything in this region was unsettled grassland with a few trees along rivers and large creeks.
I was hoping those might be old wood barns, not your new one. Drat.:-P
Hold the phone, Kris
> For Kent, when the tin is on, then I will add the "wind bracing" that I asked for by name with cables and turnbuckles as recommended by my engineer cousin. 🙂
Kris, sorry, I wasn't paying attention when I looked at your photos earlier. My mind was out in the Big Bend working on the next project. So, as a result I neglected to chastise you for such a lame design of a structure as you've posted. You're using old 2-1/2 in. steel pipe as the beams that span the posts? WTF sort of Aggie engineering is that? Did you ever actually consider *buying* some members that were strong enough to support the roof panels that it looks as if you're going to attach to them? Strongly recommend unless you're thinking that your insurance policy will cover any mishaps.
Kent
I wouldn't worry yourself about how stout this barn is. I promise its stronger than most.
In the words of an old farmer next to me out there
"It doesn't make a $h1t if you like it, as long as I like it."
Have fun in the big bend
Kent
> I wouldn't worry yourself about how stout this barn is. I promise its stronger than most.
>
Well next time, consult us before you build a shed. You could almost make a coffee table book of Aggie-engineered sheds made out of scrap steel with no attention to basic engineering principles. I saw a variation on yours recently that had some used bar joists welded to the tops of the steel pipe columns. Just basiscally the bottom chord of the joist resting on the top of the pipe and welded. Naturally it made zero structural sense.
Kent you missed your calling as a building inspector!
Wow! Way to jump to assumptions and conclusions Mr. Architect! Your keen prowess for knowing my next step is un-paralleled in the fabrication and construction of barns.
However, since you asked, obviously I wouldn't put tin on top without some lathing of some sort or on the sides at least every 4 feet. I'd have nothing to stand on. It's obvious you haven't attempted to screw tin to 2 7/8" drill stem.
Anyway, these are part-way completed pix. Much more work is next. However, typically speaking, the tin and "c" perlin (sp?) are installed at the same time, so this is simply the steel structure.
Thanks for your support!
😉
Kent you missed your calling as a building inspector!
LOL, Kent is critical of things that you have not even done yet, sorta reminds me of the wife!
I can dig the photos, thx for posting, looking forward to the rest of the story...
BTW - just curious, over in Texas if you were surveying land and found this structure, what would you label it on your plat?
Boundary Lines
Tin Barn would be the label that I use for this structure.
Thanks!
Yes, a flat roof !
I'd never build a roof that didn't have enough slope that I knew which direction the water would drain. If there are screw holes in the metal, some water will come through and the less slope the more water. If there is any unevenness there could be small pools of water that remain and continue to corrode/rust the metal when a roof with a small slope would have dried.
Yes, a flat roof !
> Yes, a flat roof. It is 11' in the front and 10.5' in the back.
A sloping flat roof, not a flat flat roof:-)
Yes, a flat roof !
> I'd never build a roof that didn't have enough slope that I knew which direction the water would drain. If there are screw holes in the metal, some water will come through and the less slope the more water. If there is any unevenness there could be small pools of water that remain and continue to corrode/rust the metal when a roof with a small slope would have dried.
Bill: "Flat Roof" was figure of speech. It has 6" of fall in 30'; more than enough slope to prevent ponding.
Wind overcomes gravity of course, I have rain that gets pushed up a wall forcing it up into the soffit of the overhang 7 feet above (and it did last night)... but that is the dynamic of weather and it works out fine if the rest of the "system" allows for it.
Kent you missed your calling as a building inspector!
> Wow! Way to jump to assumptions and conclusions Mr. Architect! Your keen prowess for knowing my next step is un-paralleled in the fabrication and construction of barns.
>
> However, since you asked, obviously I wouldn't put tin on top without some lathing of some sort or on the sides at least every 4 feet. I'd have nothing to stand on. It's obvious you haven't attempted to screw tin to 2 7/8" drill stem.
Kris:
I assumed that you were going to attach purlins to the pipe frame, probably light steel sections welded to the pipes. The trick you missed was simply buying some 1/2 in. rod to truss the horizontal pipe members in the roof. That would have turned the roof into something that looked closer to being a non-Aggie-engineered structure. Likewise, you could have used 1/2 in. rod for X-bracing with some attention to the welded connections.
Kent you missed your calling as a building inspector!
Using cables in lieu of the bars that you speak of.
Like I said, it don't matter if you like it as long as I like it.
