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Recessed nails
Posted by jason-graves on December 14, 2016 at 11:40 pmMaybe this been covered elsewhere. Oh well.
I use 1/4″x2″ (or 2-1/2″) MAG nails with a 1-1/2″ disk(c) on them. I would like to counterbore/sink or just below the surface without breaking the bank.
What is everyone else using?
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oldpacer replied 7 years, 8 months ago 11 Members · 16 Replies -
16 Replies
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In Kentucky we are required to set a ferrous nail with a minimum diameter of 1/4″ and a minimum length of 1-1/2″.
I don’t think that those fit the bill.
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I use a 4 pound hammer to beat a dent into asphalt. Otherwise, I don’t recess it. I also don’t set anything in concrete so I just cut an “X”.
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Kris Morgan, post: 404167, member: 29 wrote: I use a 4 pound hammer to beat a dent into asphalt. Otherwise, I don’t recess it. I also don’t set anything in concrete so I just cut an “X”.
+1
This ^^^ is what I’ve always done as well.
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I generally do not consider 2″ nails, with or without washers, to be “permanent” monuments. I would not rely on such a monument to survive a winter. At least if you set them in a drill hole in sound concrete, and recess them, they have a sporting chance at surviving, so good on you for that. (“Control” nails set in sidewalk cracks and expansion joints are a pet peeve of mine.)
I recommend that you switch to the Bernsten Plugs . You can get them made with any imprint you like and there is a special recessing bit available.
If you really want to stick with nails, hammer drill bits 1 1/2″ in diameter are available. Just don’t go deep. That or a chisel bit for your hammer drill. Or just a broad cold chisel.
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If I want a nail in asphalt to be “permanent” I’ll drill a 1/4″ hole through the asphalt and set a 6″ MAG Spike. Or, preferably, drive a 1/2″ iron rod into it. I don’t use washers nowadays, but if I did a hammered dimple, as described by Kris, works if the asphalt has any flexibility left in it.
I use smaller MAG nails in asphalt sometimes, but only for temporary points.
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I have used a gear spike (or cotton spindle, or gin spike) turned upside down to open up the area around the drill hole and create a recess. Beat on it and turn it like you would an old star drill.
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Jason Graves, post: 404166, member: 9531 wrote: In Kentucky we are required to set a ferrous nail with a minimum diameter of 1/4″ and a minimum length of 1-1/2″.
I don’t think that those fit the bill.
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Don’t you have a “where practicable” clause?
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Mark Mayer, post: 404181, member: 424 wrote: I recommend that you switch to the Bernsten Plugs . You can get them made with any imprint you like and there is a special recessing bit available..
For control in A/C that I feel is susceptible to scrapping, I have gone to setting the plugs. While they cost a bit more they last and go in quick with the use of or Bosch hammer drill. Anymore it seems to be near impossible to get a 2″ mag nail in A/C without drilling it anyway.
On that note, Shelby tried to order some last week and both Berntsen and Markit are on back order with an to-be-determined fulfillment date. -
I use 1 1/4′ SS disk and countersink with a 1 1/2″ hole saw. The leftover interior bump is easily crushed with the hammer.
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ANOTHER_TEXAS_SURVEYOR, post: 404237, member: 8610 wrote: is this something you were looking for?
The O-tag thing would be perfect except that it is sized for 3/4″ washers.
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I really like the drill bit for the o-tags and the mark it plugs. I just don’t like the monuments themselves.
Whenever I set a nail in concrete I drill the hole then set a cross-cut over the hole (with an angle grinder) and then I set the nail.
In asphalt I always dimple the bituminous surface before it is set, in hopes that a snow plow will make it over the top of it without tearing it out.
I NEVER set a nail in a seam, that is the worse. When I see it done, I want to rip them out. Worthless control and corners.
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I do use 2-1/2″ nails or the 8″ MAG spikes in asphalt though.
If I am in a rural area with a bituminous surface I will try to set a rebar, but here in the city it just won’t happen. Homeowners would pitch a fit.
I tried to set a cross cut in my clients drive and she requested it not to be set in her drive…. Ûªâü
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Jason Graves, post: 404309, member: 9531 wrote: I really like the drill bit for the o-tags and the mark it plugs. I just don’t like the monuments themselves.
Whenever I set a nail in concrete I drill the hole then set a cross-cut over the hole (with an angle grinder) and then I set the nail.
In asphalt I always dimple the bituminous surface before it is set, in hopes that a snow plow will make it over the top of it without tearing it out.
I NEVER set a nail in a seam, that is the worse. When I see it done, I want to rip them out. Worthless control and corners.
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I have never understood why you would set a control point in a sidewalk crack. Thanks for posting that, I feel better knowing there are others that don’t like seem sets. We have no snow plows down here but I also have found that dimpled asphalt sets keep street maintenance from pulling the disks up.
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