they just require vents for the septic leaching under impervious surface or more than 3′ of soil. i have a pair of vents in my yard for my system that is 4′ down. a system that lasted for 30-40 years is doing pretty well, they can’t last forever no matter how well vented, pumped, cleaned or maintained.
i cannot recall the names, but there are two methods of super-oxygenating the current effluent in an attempt to break down the biomat and revive a failed field. one is a pump they pop in the tank and the other is a dry chemical that just increases that o2 level. this is a band aid at best and the system will fail again, but it can buy some time.
i’ve seen a septic under a common driveway, a road is just a step up from that. there aren’t other utilities to contend with? I have to assume town water, if you have it. variances for setbacks (assuming you cannot meet the 10′ from the sidelines) and the variance for the connection across the street mentioned above and away you go. i’d review it with the local agent before i went up to DEP.
if future failure is a concern add an I/A component to allow for the reduction in the leach field, install the reserve area and cap the distribution lines in the d-box. or add a second d-box with a line sitting next to the septic tank ready to connect upon failure of the primary. again, the local agent will guide you, then DEP can send you in a different direction. (be sure to research that I/A, I just ticked off the HOOT folks by reading their approval letters and informing the local agent that the design we prepared was correct – the tankage in the standard design does not meet the code or their approval and a second tank is required, i guess i’m a real jerk)
what are your soils? you getting sewer anytime soon? any other town land nearby?